2016 Subaru Forester Electrical System

The battery drains when the car is turned off without anything electrical being on, possibly a parasitic battery. Have taken the car to dealership multiple time and they said the battery itself was fine.

Car’s battery/ electrical system seems to drain car battery excessively. Even with a new battery, car battery dies if car isn’t run at least every 2 or 3 days, meaning I can’t rely on car if I take a trip of any length and leave the car behind. There’s a risk of being stranded. Car is 6 years old, and already has had 4 batteries. Im concerned about being stranded

The battery drains quickly compared to my husband's car. I had to get a new battery every other year. Subaru has known issues with the CAN system and it hasn't been addressed. This is dangerous as my car wouldn't start. I didn't feel safe. Other people have posted similar situtations online and those have to be corrected. I would rather not waste money on a battery every other year. My safety is more important of course. The electrical systems need to have a recall put in so this can be fixed without money coming out of my pocket as this is a wide-spread issue for subaru.

There was a short in the wiring harness, causing the car to loose power and stall.

IN SPITE OF CAREFUL MAINTENANCE AND USE I HAVE HAD AT LEAST 7 INSTANCES WHERE THE BATTERY HAD DIED. IN 4 OF THOSE INSTANCES I WAS ABLE TO JUMP START THE CAR AND CONTINUE USING IT. IN 3 INSTANCES I WAS UNABLE TO JUMP START IT, SO I HAD TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE BATTERY 3 TIMES SINCE OWNING IT NEW IN LATE 2016. I HAVE LOST MY FEELING OF CONFIDENCE IN USING THE CAR OVERNIGHT IN REMOTE AREAS, SUCH AS WHEN CAMPING OR HIKING. I BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER TWICE AND THEY HAVE NOT FOUND ANY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS TO CORRECT, SO I THINK IT IS A DESIGN FLAW.

UNIDENTIFIED PROBLEM IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS CAUSING THE SECOND BATTERY TO DRAIN IN MY SUBARU FORESTER. THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED JANUARY 02, 2021 AFTER IT WENT DEAD ON THE PARKING LOT BUT I HAD TO JUMP START THE CAR THREE TIMES IN ONE MONTH AFTER THAT. SUBARU CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN CAN NOT IDENTIFY THE ISSUE. THE BATTERY CHECK SHOWS BATTERY IS FINE.

The battery drains quickly if the engine is not running and the key remains in the ignition even for a short period of time. From what I can tell even if you shut off the car completely, you cannot leave the key in the ignition or something is still drawing power. You must physically remove the key from the ignition. The issue stranded my family on two separate occasions requiring a jump start. Once was late at night in a secluded area, the other in a parking lot. We have two other cars from different makes and have not had this issue. In one case the car was off in a parking lot with my wife waiting for 15 minutes. In the other my daughter was listening to the radio while parked for less than 10 minutes. This Forester has the stock radio with no after market mods. The Forester drives great and feels very safe in all other respects. We truly love the car. But I have to make sure that we do not park the car and leave the key in the ignition or the battery will die. I asked my mechanic to check the battery, but he said that the battery itself tested fine. Seems like this problem has been reported elsewhere. Thanks

The oem battery in this vehicle has failed Multiple times (dozens of times), upon sitting for a few days. Nothing in the vehicle was On, it was just sitting. A couple of times it was towed to the dealership in Bozemanwhere I bought it (Gallatin Motors) for diagnosis and repairs (bad/dead battery). The battery was replaced Once per Subaru's policy. Then I was on my own for repeated, totally unexplained DEAD battery upon trying to start the car after a couple/ few days/ nothing left on. I finally bought my own new recommended Interstate Battery after repeated dead out non starts. I bought a Duracell battery maintainer/ conditioner to install in my garage, which I use when the vehicle sits for more than 2 or 3 days to be sure the darn battery will start the car. It's obvious to me there's a parasitic battery drain in this smart car, but no one from any dealership will acknowledge/ has any advice about this! This is discussed in multiple online forums. I love the car and it's smarts, but not turning Dead Off after I'm finished driving it - and draining the battery making it impossible to start again without a jump - is totally not acceptable for a "vehicle."

Battery seems to drain for no reason very frequently.

Since my driving has cut down drastically since Nov 2019 right before the pandemic, I have been plagued with my battery draining quite quickly. This happens when the car is not driving regularly, sometimes within a week and a half. I have to put the battery on a tender as well. This even occurred after getting the battery replaced at Subaru, and the problem coming back nearly immediately.

BATTERY DRAIN REQUIRING MULTIPLE JUMP STARTS AND BATTERY REPLACEMENT

AFTER PARKED THE 2016 SUBARU FORESTER, THE KEY WAS STUCK AND COULD NOT BE PULLED OUT OF THE KEY CYLINDER. IT HAPPENED EVERY OTHER DAYS.

WHEN TURNING OFF THE CAR, THE KEY WILL NOT COMPLETELY TURN COUNTERCLOCKWISE BUT WILL GET STUCK AT ABOUT 2/3 OF THE WAY TOWARDS OFF (NEAR THE "ACC" POINT). CANNOT TAKE THE KEY OUT. THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT TO RELEASE IS TO START THE ENGINE AGAIN. SOMETIMES SEVERAL TIMES ARE NEEDED. THIS IS AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM BUT IS HAPPENING MORE FREQUENTLY AND COULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE IF THERE IS A NEED TO LEAVE THE VEHICLE QUICKLY OR SECURE THE VEHICLE IN A PUBLIC PARKING AREA. LEAVING THE CAR WITH THE BATTERY ENGAGED AND THE KEY STUCK IS NOT AN OPTION. THE CAR IS COMPLETELY STOPPED, IN PARK, AND I AM READY TO TURN THE ENGINE OFF. THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN OCCURRING FOR APPROXIMATELY A MONTH (STARTED IN AUG 2020) AND INITIALLY I THOUGHT I WAS NOT PUTTING IT IN PARK, OR THE STEERING WHEEL HAD TURNED OR SOME OTHER ISSUE I COULD CORRECT. SINCE IT IS INTERMITTENT, I THOUGHT IT MIGHT GO AWAY. UNFORTUNATELY IT IS HAPPENING MORE FREQUENTLY AND IS DISCONCERTING.

THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AFTER CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN AND CAR IS PARKED. THE FIRST TIME WAS SATURDAY,AUGUST 1. SINCE THEN, IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING ABOUT ONCE EVERY OTHER DAY FOR FIVE DAYS. NOW IT IS HAPPENING AT LEAST ONCE EVERY DAY.

THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED AND IN "PARK," INTERMITTENTLY. I NEED TO RESTART THE CAR, READJUST THE SHIFTER OUT AND THEN BACK INTO "PARK," UNTIL THE VEHICLE SENSES THAT I AM ACTUALLY IN "PARK" AND ALLOWS ME TO REMOVE THE KEY.

IGNITION KEY WILL NOT DISENGAGE AFTER THE VEHICLE IS PARKED AND THE ENGINE TURNED OFF; VEHICLE HAS A CVT TRANSMISSION.

CAR SUFFERED 10 UNEXPLAINED ORIGINAL BATTERY DISCHARGES IN YEARS 2-3 OF OWNERSHIP. UPON JUMP START, AUTO WOULD START AND OPERATE NORMALLY FOR 2-5 MONTHS BEFORE NEXT DISCHARGE. SUBARU AUTHORIZED WARRANTY REPLACEMENT THROUGH DEALERSHIP WITH NEW LARGER POWERED BATTERY AT END OF YEAR 3 OF OWNERSHIP. REPAIR STATED FAILURE DUE TO BATTERY LEAKAGE ALTHOUGH NONE WAS OBSERVED BY OWNERS. 13 MONTHS AFTER REPLACEMENT BATTERY WAS INSTALLED, IT DISCHARGED TWICE IN SAME DAY AND WAS TAKEN TO ORIGINAL DEALERSHIP (SUBARU OF PORTLAND). SERVICE TECHNICIAN CHECK DETERMINED BATTERY COULD NOT BE RECHARGED, COULD NOT DETERMINE REASON FOR ITS FAILURE, COULD NOT FIND ANY ELECTRICAL PARASITIC DRAWS AND FOUND ALL SOFTWARE WAS UP TO DATE. OWNER WAS CHARGED FOR NEW BATTERY AND INSTALLATION AS FAILED BATTERY WAS NOW OUT OF 1-YEAR SUBARU REPLACEMENT POLICY. BRIEF INTERNET REVIEW SHOWS THIS HAS BECOME A COMMON PROBLEM WITH 2016-2017 SUBARU'S. SUBARU U.S. CORPORATE CUSTOMER CARE DEPARTMENT DEMONSTRATED NO INTEREST IN TAKING COMPLAINT OR LOGGING IN ANY DETAIL INFORMATION, DIRECTING OWNER BACK TO REPAIRING DEALERSHIP. DEALERSHIP CLAIMS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR FAILED BATTERIES.

WHILE THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY, THE KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHEN ATTEMPTING TO TURN THE CAR OFF. THE MOTOR SHUTS DOWN, BUT THE KEY WILL NOT TURN COMPLETELY TO THE REMOVAL LOCATION. I OFTEN HAVE TO TURN THE VEHICLE ON AND THEN QUICKLY OFF IN ORDER TO GET THE KEY TO REMOVE FROM THE IGNITION. SOMETIMES PUTTING THE VEHICLE BACK INTO GEAR (REVERSE OR DRIVE) BEFORE RETURNING THE TRANSMISSION TO PARK IS ALSO REQUIRED. SEVERAL ATTEMPTS MAY BE NECESSARY BEFORE SUCCESSFULLY REMOVING THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. THIS PROBLEM STARTED SUDDENLY IN THE LAST MONTH AND OCCURS AT LEAST 50% OF THE TIME WHEN THE VEHICLE IS USED.

MY CAR WAS PARKED IN MY GARAGE AND HAD NOT BEEN STARTED FOR ONE DAY. THE BATTERY WOULD NOT START THE CAR, I HAD TO CALL FOR A JUMP. I WAITED APPROXIMATELY ONE HOUR FOR SOMEONE TO COME THROUGH SUBARU ROAD SIDE ASSIST. THE BATTERY WAS RELATIVELY NEW, AS THE ORIGINAL WAS REPLACED 1/2019. WE TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY TESTED THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR, WHICH WERE FINE. THEY RECHARGED THE BATTERY. I PAID FOR THE BATTERY INSPECTION.

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION AFTER CAR IS TURNED OFF. REQUIRES SEVERAL ATTEMPTS OF JIGGLING THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTER TO FINALLY FREE THE KEY. VEHICLE IS OFF AND NOT MOVING WHEN THIS OCCURS. A QUICK BIT OF RESEARCH INDICATES THAT THIS IS PROBLEM IS OCCURRING ON ALL SUBARU MODELS NOT JUST THE FORESTER. SUBARU SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R ADDRESSES THIS ISSUE. ONLY 40K MILES MY VEHICLE, OUT OF WARRANTY REPAIR IS OVER 500 DOLLARS. I DON'T SEE HOW THIS IS NOT A RECALL IF IT HAPPENING ON ALL SUBARU MODELS, AN OBVIOUS DEFECT HERE.

UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. PER TSP 16 112 18R THE CAUSE IS CONTAMINATION OF THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH INTERNAL COMPONENTS. WE OWN 2 IDENTICAL CARS PURCHASED THE SAME DAY. BOTH HAVE STARTED TO EXPERIENCE THIS EVERY DAY SINCE WE HIT 30,000 MILES. WE PURCHASED IN APRIL 2016, SO WARRANTY NO LONGER COVERS. THERE ARE HUNDREDS (MAYBE THOUSANDS) OF POSTINGS ON MANY FORUMS INDICATING THE SAME ISSUE. THIS HAS RESULTED IN US HAVING TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE CAR WHEN WE PARK SOMEWHERE. IT TAKES ROUND 3-4 MINUTES TO START AND RESTART THE CAR AND MOVE IT BACK AND FORTH IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE KEY. THIS IS NOT THE SITUATION THAT OCCURS WHEN YOU JUST NEED TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL.

UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK AND THE CAR IS STATIONARY. PER TSP 16 112 18R THE CAUSE IS CONTAMINATION OF THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH INTERNAL COMPONENTS. WE OWN 2 IDENTICAL CARS PURCHASED THE SAME DAY. BOTH HAVE STARTED TO EXPERIENCE THIS EVERY DAY SINCE WE HIT 30,000 MILES. WE PURCHASED IN APRIL 2016, SO WARRANTY NO LONGER COVERS. THERE ARE HUNDREDS (MAYBE THOUSANDS) OF POSTINGS ON MANY FORUMS INDICATING THE SAME ISSUE. THIS HAS RESULTED IN US HAVING TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE CAR WHEN WE PARK SOMEWHERE. IT TAKES AROUND 3-4 MINUTES TO START AND RESTART THE CAR AND MOVE IT BACK AND FORTH IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE KEY. THIS IS NOT THE SITUATION THAT OCCURS WHEN YOU JUST NEED TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL.

THE REAR HATCH DOOR HAS OPENED THREE TIMES WITHOUT MY DOING ANYTHING TO OPEN IT.. EACH TIME I HAVE FOUND THE DOOR UP AFTER THE CAR HAD BEEN PARKED OVERNIGHT IN MY CARPORT. I LIVE ALONE AND NO ONE ELSE HAS ACCESS TO THE ELECTRONIC CONTROLS.

INTERMITTENT IGNITION ISSUE WILL NOT ALWAYS RELEASE KEY WHEN AUTO IS TURNED OFF. THE POSITION OF THE STEERING WHEEL SEEMS TO AFFECT IT.DOES NOT ALLOW ROTATION TO THE RELEASE KEY POSITION.SOMETIMES I HAVE TO TURN AUTO BACK ON, BACK OUT, AND PULL IN WITH WHEELS AND STEERING WHEEL IN PERFECT STRAIGHT ALIGNMENT, WHICH SEEMS TO ALLOW ME TO TURN KEY TO RELEASE KEY POSITION.

WE'VE HAD THE CAR FROM NEW LEASE THE BATTERY HAS DIED AT LEAST 4 TIMES. AFTER THE 2ND TIME, WE TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO BE CHECKED. THEY SAID BATTERY AND CHARGER WERE FINE. IT IS NOT FINE IF THE BATTERY CAN'T HOLD ENOUGH POWER TO START CAR AFTER LEAVING KEY ON ACC FOR 15 MINUTES WITH NO LIGHTS, NO RADIO, NOTHING KNOWINGLY DRAWING POWER. EVEN WHEN THE BATTERY STARTS THE CAR NORMALLY, CRANKING IS SLOW, ALMOST UNABLE TO CRANK. I HAVE HAD TO RESCUE MY WIFE, HER SON-IN-LAW HAS HAD TO, BUT WHAT IF WE AREN'T AVAILABLE. A CAR SHOULD BE GENERALLY ABLE TO START UNLESS YOU'VE LEFT THE LIGHTS ON FOR HOURS. THE LAST SITUATION, DRIVEN TO MCDONALD'S, PARKED AND ENGINE OFF, KEY WAS TURNED TO ACC TO ROLL DOWN WINDOW; NOTHING ELSE. AFTER 15-20 MINUTES, CAR WOULD NOT START, DEAD BATTERY. I HAD TO COME AND JUMP IT.