2016 Mazda CX-5 Power Train

About a month ago, started hearing a whining noise from the automatic transaxle when driving at different speeds. The more speed, the more noise you hear inside the vehicle. It occurs with all types of driving, acceleration, deceleration and steady speed. Took my Mazda CX-5 into auto experts and found there is a Service Bulletin regarding this issue in 2013-2016 Mazda CX-5's. There is a damaged bearing in the transaxle due to improper configuration of the transaxle case. There needs to be a recall for this issue, not just a service bulletin. I cannot afford a new transmission and replacing the transmission with a like for like or used transmission, there is no guarantee the issue won't come back.

I was driving on the freeway, going 60-65mph for about 10 minutes. All of a sudden, the engine went from ~2k RPM to ~4 RPM. The speed stayed the same. And then it happened again a few minutes later. A few days after this incident, while driving on the freeway, going 60mph, the car refused to go past 60mph. This also happened ~2 weeks prior. This would have caused an accident had I needed to speed up to avoid an issue but my car refused to go any faster on a flat road.

WHILE GETTING OFF A FREEWAY EXIT SUDDENLY THERE WAS SOME NOISE IN THE ENGINE AREA FOLLOWED BY MAJOR RATTLING EVERY TIME THE CAR SLOWED DOWN OR SPED UP, MAKING IT UNDRIVABLE. THE PROFESSIONAL DIAGNOSTIC WAS THAT SOMETHING WITHIN THE TRANSMISSION WAS BROKEN/COMING APART. THE CAR HAD ONLY AROUND 27000 MILES ON IT AND THIS HAPPENED WITHIN MONTHS OF DRIVE-TRAIN WARRANTY EXPIRING.

WHEN THE CAR IS COLD AND PARKED THE TRANSMISSION WILL LURCH INTO DRIVE SOMETIMES AND EVERYTIME WHEN THE CAR IS COLD THE TRANSMISSION WILL GET STUCK IN THIRD OR FOURTH GEAR AND THE CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE UNTIL I FLOOR IT UNTIL THEN THE CAR WON'T SHIFT OUT OF GEAR FOR A FEW HUNDRED FEET AND CONTINUE TO BIG DOWN THE ENGINE, THEN AFTER THAT THE TRANSMISSION WILL DOWNSHIFT AND THE CAR WILL START TO ACCELERATE. IF I MANUALLY SHIFT THE CAR INTO FIRST THE PROBLEM WON'T OCCURRE AS BADLY. THIS SOFAR ONLY HAPPENS ONCE WHEN THE TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE ARE COLD. BUT EVEN IF I LET THE CAR SIT AND IDLE FOR A FEW MINUTES IT'LL STILL HAPPEN.

WHILE BACKING OUT FROM A DRIVEWAY INTO A CITY STREET, I SHIFTED THE VEHICLE FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE. THE GEAR SHIFT INDICATED THAT THE CAR WAS IN DRIVE, BUT THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO ROLL BACKWARD AS IF IT WAS IN NEUTRAL. THE ENGINE THEN STOPPED, AND THE VEHICLE NEEDED TO BE PUSHED FROM THE STREET OUT OF THE TRAVEL LANES. *TR

WHEN STARTING CAR AND PUTTING IT INTO DRIVE, THEN PUSH THE GAS, THE CAR HESITATES TO GO INTO DRIVE THEN JOLTS WHEN IT FINALLY SHIFTS INTO GEAR FROM PARK. MY CONCERN IS THAT IT TAKES LONG TO GO INTO DRIVE FROM PARK, AND THE ENGINE REVS AND JOLTS VIOLENTLY WHEN IT FINALLY READS THE DRIVE GEAR WHICH IS NOT NORMAL AND IS A SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME.

WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED, THEN I MOVE GEAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE, OR REVERSE TO DRIVE, THE VEHICLE STALLS TO GO INTO TO DRIVE FOR A COUPLE OF SECONDS, THE ENGINE REVS THEN THERE IS A FORCEFUL JOLT WHEN IT FINALLY KICKS IN TO DRIVE. ALSO, WHEN I'M AT A STOP FOR A WHILE, THEN PRESS ON THE GAS PEDAL TO DRIVE, IT TAKES A COUPLE OF SECONDS FOR THE CAR TO DRIVE. THIS IS A BIG CONCERN FOR ME BECAUSE THERE SEEMS TO BE A DELAY WITH THE DRIVE GEAR.

SIGNIFICANT LAG IN TRANSMISSION GOING FROM STOP TO EITHER DRIVE OR REVERSE (3 - 5 SECONDS). CAR CAN ROLL BACKWARD WHILE WAITING FOR GEAR TO ENGAGE, AND WILL REV AND THEN JERK HARSHLY INTO GEAR. ALSO WILL JERK WHEN SHIFTING WHILE ACCELERATING TO HIGHWAY SPEEDS. VEHICLE HAD UNDER 25,000 MILES ON IT WHEN SYMPTOMS STARTED. TOOK IT TO DEALER AND GOT APPROVAL FOR NEW TRANSMISSION UNDER WARRANTY VERY QUICKLY, WHICH LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM FOR MAZDA. SAW MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON NHTSA WEBSITE.

PURCHASED WITH JUST 50K MILES. TOOK TO MAZDA FOR SERVICE LIGHT. NOTIFIED THE DIFFERENTIAL NEEDED REPLACEMENT CITING 2 TB (10155436 AND 10145248) CLEARLY IDENTIFYING THE ROOT CAUSE AS DEFECT IN MANUFACTURING. FURTHER INVESTIGATION PROVIDED CLEAR PROOF OF MAZDA'S ASSESSMENT WITH THE DIFFERENTIAL AND POINTING TO THE TB'S AS CASE FOR THE CLAIM APPROVAL. PICTURES SHOW YEAR'S LONG BUILDUP OF RUST, BROKEN COUPLERS, WATER CONTAMINATED OIL, METAL SHAVING. ALL REFLECTIVE OF THE DAMAGE CREATED BY THE DEFECTIVE DESIGN INDICATED IN THE TB. THE WARRANTY CLAIM WAS DENIED BECAUSE OF THE RELATED ISSUES WITH THE DEFECTIVE SEAL ALLOWING DAMAGE TO THE DIFFERENTIAL AND RELATED PARTS. ALSO EFFECTIVELY VOIDED MY POWER-TRAIN WARRANTY COVERAGE. THIS PRESENTS A HAZARD OPERATING THE VEHICLE AT CERTAIN SPEEDS WITH BROKEN METAL PARTS IN THE TRANSFER GEARS. I THINK IT REQUIRES A RECALL BECAUSE IT IS INEVITABLE WATER, RAIN, SNOW, EVEN A CAR WASHES WILL GET INTO THE SYSTEM BECAUSE OF THE FAULTY DESIGN. FACTS: VEHICLE HAD PRIOR MAZDA SERVICE AND THERE IS NO EVIDENCE TO SUPPORT MAZDA PRESENTED THE REPAIR OPTION PRIOR TO THE DASH LIGHT APPEARING. MAZDA HAS NO SERVICE OR WARRANTY CHECKS IN PLACE THAT DETECTS THE DAMAGE. THE TIME IT TAKES FOR THAT LEVEL OF RUST BUILD UP TO ACCRUE IS SELF-EVIDENT THIS IS MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE THAT SHOULD REQUIRE A RECALL BUT ALSO A MATTER OF ETHICS AND INTEGRITY. WATER IN YOUR REAR AXLE WILL UNDOUBTEDLY CAUSE FAILURE TO SEALED MECHANICAL COMPONENTS. MAZDA WAS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE FOR YEARS YET DOES NOT OFFER THE CONSUMER ANY ADDITIONAL COVERAGE OR ANY WAY TO PROTECT THEMSELVES FROM A HEFTY REPAIR COSTS OR RISK OF HARM DUE TO THIS FAILURE. THE VEHICLE ITSELF HOLDS EVIDENCE OF DRIVE-TRAIN AND ITS WARNING SYSTEM ARE BOTH DEFECTIVE BECAUSE THE HISTORIC ERROR CODES/MILEAGE IN ITS INTERNAL MEMORY. THE SYSTEM FAILED ALERTING THE ISSUES WELL AFTER THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY EXPIRED.

WHILE ACCELERATING OR DECELERATING THE RPMS WILL JUMP NEARLY 1,000RPMS BEFORE DECREASING TO ITS NORMALLY EXPECTED LEVELS. THIS RESULTS IN JUMPS AND STUTTERS IN THE TRANSMISSION. ADDITIONALLY, WHILE SHIFTING FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE THE TRANSMISSION TAKES SEVERAL SECONDS TO ENGAGE RESULTING IN A VEHICLE THAT LINGERS IN NEUTRAL. THIS MAKES THE VEHICLE FREE ROLL BACKWARDS FOR SEVERAL SECONDS BEFORE POPPING INTO DRIVE WHICH RESULTS IN INCREASED PRESSURE IN THE DRIVETRAIN.

I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE WITH 36K MILES ON IT, CLEAN CARFAX, WITH ONLY 1 OWNER. WITHIN AN HOUR FROM DRIVING IT HOME FROM THE DEALERSHIP, I NOTICED AN ISSUE WHEN PUTTING IT IN DRIVE. THERE WAS A 5 SECOND DELAY. EVERY SINGLE TIME I PUT IT ON DRIVE, THE DELAY WOULD HAPPEN. IF YOU STEPPED ON THE GAS, IT WOULD ACT AS IF IT WERE IN NEUTRAL AND VIOLENTLY JOLT FORWARD. LUCKILY, I WAS IN A PARKING LOT AND I WAS ABLE TO AVOID ACCIDENTS. I PURCHASED THIS CAR TO TRANSPORT MY CHILDREN BUT I NO LONGER FEEL THAT IT IS SAFE. THE SOLUTION I WAS GIVEN AT THE DEALERSHIP WAS THAT THE TRANSMISSION MAY POTENTIALLY NEED TO BE REPLACED. NOW I UNDERSTAND WHY IT TOOK THEM 3 MONTHS TO SELL THIS CAR. I FEEL LIKE THIS IS UNETHICAL.

THE VEHICLE WAS BOUGHT BRAND NEW ON 06/30/2015. IT NEEDED A NEW TRANSMISSION AT 20,690 MILES (09/02/16). AT ~43,000 MILES, LEAKS WERE DETECTED. THE MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS POWERTRAIN ISSUES. THE LEAK WAS TRANSMISSION FLUID THAT SPREAD TO THE WHOLE LENGTH OF THE CAR UNDERNEATH. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED, CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP THAT LATER CONFIRMED THE MECHANIC'S DIAGNOSIS. POWERTRAIN WILL BE FIXED AT THE MANUFACTURER'S EXPENSE (THE MANUFACTURER CONSIDERS IT A MANUFACTURING ISSUE AND HAS HONORED THE WARRANTY).

I PURCHASED A 2016 NEW MAZDA CX-5 IN OCTOBER 2016. MY CAR WAS ONLY 5 MONTHS OLD WITH 5411 MILEAGE ON IT WHEN I EXPERIENCED THIS PROBLEM. I WAS PULLING UP MY DRIVEWAY WHEN I GOT IN FRONT OF MY GARAGE DOORS OF MY HOME, WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE ABOUT READY TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK , THE ENGINE BEGAN TO REV UP TO A HIGH RATE OF SPEED AND ACCELERATED INTO MY HOUSE. THE HOUSE STOPPED THE CAR FROM GOING ANY FURTHER. MY HUSBAND WAS IN THE PASSENGER SEAT AND EXPERIENCED THIS AS WELL. I WAS PRESSING DOWN ON THE BRAKE, BUT NOTHING STOPPED IT. I WAS CLOSE DISTANCE TO THE HOUSE AND IT HAPPENED SO FAST. I BACKED OFF MY HOUSE. I HAD TO GET MY GARAGE DOORS REPLACED AND THE CAR FIXED. I DID NOT DRIVE THE CAR AGAIN. ONCE THE BODY SHOP FIXED THE CAR (DAMAGE $2300.00 DOLLARS), I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE CAR TO INVESTIGATE THE PROBLEM. THEY DROVE IT FOR A FEW WEEKS WITH A BLACK BOX, BUT NEVER DETERMINED THE PROBLEM OR IT HAPPENING AGAIN. MAZDA CORPORATION WAS INVOLVED WITH THIS INVESTIGATION. I HAD FILED THE PROBLEM WITH THEM IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE ACCIDENT HAD OCCURRED. I REFUSED TO DRIVE THE CAR AGAIN. THE DEALERSHIP (MAZDA IN MANCHESTER, NH) WORKED A DEAL WITH ME TO BUY THE CAR BACK AND GET ME INTO A NEW 2016 MAZDA CX-5. I HOPE I DON'T EXPERIENCE THIS WITH MY NEW CX-5. I REALLY LIKE THE CAR, BUT I HAVE TO SAY THAT WAS AN EXPERIENCE THAT NO ONE WOULD EVER WANT TO EXPERIENCE. I AM JUST GRATEFUL THAT I WASN'T ON A STREET AND IT HAPPENED TO MY OWN PROPERTY. IT COST QUITE A BIT IN DEDUCTIBLES ON HOUSE AND CAR AND I AM SURE MY RATES WILL GO UP ON INSURANCE ON BOTH. UNFORTUNATELY MAZDA COULD NOT PROVE THERE WAS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE CAR, SO MY INSURANCE COMPANY COULD NOT GO AFTER THEM FOR THE DAMAGES. AS I SAID BEFORE I AM GRATEFUL MY HUSBAND AND I ARE OK AND NO ONE GOT HURT. ALSO, I FOUND 4-6 OTHERS REPORTING THIS SAME COMPLAINT ON THE CX-5.

THE 'START/STOP' BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE, CAN BE DONE IN ANY GEAR. WHEN DONE IN "PARK" THE VEHICLE LOCKS UP THE WHEELS AND THE VEHICLE DOES NOT ROLL. WHEN STOPPED IN OTHER GREARS' THE VEHICLE WILL ROLL OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY. VEHICLE SHOULD BE CORRECTED SO THE TRANSMISSION WILL LOCK THE WHEELS UP WHEN THE VEHICLE IS TURNED OFF IN ANY TRANSMISSION POSITION.

I BOUGHT THIS CAR JUNE 2016 AND LAST WEEK I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AFTER A FEW WEEKS OF STEPPING ON THE ACCELERATOR AND WAITING FOR THE VEHICLE TO MOVE. THEN ONE DAY 6/2/16 I PUT IT IN DRIVE AFTER BACKING OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY INTO A STREET, STEPPED ON THE ACCELERATOR AND IT WOULD NOT MOVE. IT TOOK ME 3 TIMES OF PUTTING IT BACK IN PARK THEN IN DRIVE TO MOVE AT WHICH POINT I DROVE IT RIGHT TO THE DEALERSHIP. I WAS TOLD THE NEXT DAY THAT THEY DID NOT KNOW WHY IT FAILED BUT THEY WERE GOING TO HAVE TO REPLACE IT. I GOT ONLINE AND SAW THAT MANY OTHER CX5 OWNERS HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. HAVING THE POWER TRAIN FAIL AFTER STOPPING AT A STOP SIGN, A RED LIGHT, OR AFTER BACKING OUT OF A DRIVEWAY ONTO A STREET PUTS THE DRIVER IN A DANGEROUS SITUATION.

AT 609 MILES THE CAR STARTED TO BUCK WHEN STARTING TO ACCELERATE FROM BEING STOPPED. THE CAR THEN WOULD ALSO SHIFT ROUGHLY ON THE THE HIGHWAY WHEN YOU HIT THE 25 MPH MARK. THE CAR THEN ADVANCED TO BEING ONLY ABLE TO GO IN REVERSE OR FIRST GEAR ONLY FROM A STOPPED POSITION..YOU COULD NOT MOVE FORWARD IN DRIVE. THE CAR IS CURRENTLY AT THE DEALERS AWAITING A NEW TRANSMISSION.

THE SAME STORY HAPPENED ON MY 2016 CX-5. I PURCHASED MY CAR ON JULY 8TH 2015. I ONLY HAD 2000 MILES ON MY VEHICLE WHEN THIS HAPPENED. WHEN AT A STOP LIGHT AND I STEP ON THE GAS TO GO, THE CAR DOES NOT MOVE AND JUST REVS VERY LOUDLY. AFTER A FEW SECONDS, THE CAR ACCELERATES AND THE CAR JERKS PRETTY VIOLENTLY. THIS WAS VERY CONSISTENT ON MY WAY HOME FROM WORK. WHEN I WAS DRIVING UP AN INCLINE, THE CAR'S TIMING SEEMED TO BE OFF AS IT NEEDED TO DOWNSHIFT BUT COULDN'T WHEN IT SHOULD HAVE. I MADE IT HOME AND HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN IRVINE, CA. THE DEALERSHIP JUST TOLD ME THAT THE CAR NEEDS A BRAND NEW TRANSMISSION. THEY DO NOT WHAT IS THE REASON. AND THEY COULD NOT TELL IS THE REPAIR TOTALLY FIX THE PROBLEM. THEY JUST DID WHATEVER MAZDA TOLD THEM TO DO. AFTER THREE WEEKS, FINALLY I GOT MY CX-5 REPAID. IT WAS A REALLY BAD EXPERIENCE. I DON'T FEEL SAFE TO DRIVE WITH MAZDA ANYMORE. THERE ARE MORE AND MORE SAME CASES ABOUT CX-5 POWER TRAIN.FURTHER INVESTIGATIONS ARE STRONGLY NEEDED.

I WAS DRIVING ABOUT 35 MPH ALONG A MOUNTAIN ROAD I DRIVE ON TO COMMUTE TO WORK, SUDDENLY I HAD NO FORWARD POWER, IT WAS LIKE THE CAR WAS IN NEUTRAL BUT IT WAS IN DRIVE. THE CITY BRAKE SYSTEM MALFUNCTION LIGHT CAME ON ALSO. I WAS LUCKY IN THAT I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY PULL OFF THE ROAD. I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND THEN ON AGAIN BUT STILL HAD NO FORWARD MOTION HOWEVER THE CAR WOULD OPERATE IN REVERSE. I DID SOME ON LINE RESEARCH WHILE WAITING FOR THE TOW TRUCK AND DISCOVERED THAT MY VEHICLE WAS NOT THE ONLY ONE THAT THIS HAD HAPPENED TO. THE CAR ONLY HAD 17,000.00 MILES ON IT. THE DEALERSHIP REPLACED THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION BUT COULD NOT OFFER ME ANY EXPLANATION AS TO WHAT EXACTLY WENT WRONG WITH IT. THEY SAID THEY SENT THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION BACK TO MAZDA. THEY ALSO MENTIONED THAT MINE WAS NOT THE FIRST TRANSMISSION THEY HAD REPLACED. I AM LUCKY THAT THIS HAPPENED IN AN AREA WHERE I COULD SAFELY PULL OFF THE ROAD. AS I STATED THERE WAS NO ADVANCE WARNING OF THIS IT JUST HAPPENED. IN FACT I HAD JUST HAD THE VEHICLE AT THE DEALERSHIP THE WEEK BEFORE FOR THE 15,000.00 MILE SERVICE. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THESE TRANSMISSIONS AND CERTAINLY DON'T FEEL CONFIDENT DRIVING AROUND IN MY CAR ANY LONGER ESPECIALLY SINCE THE DEALERSHIP COULD NOT ASSURE ME THAT THE PROBLEM HAD BEEN FIXED.

CAR BECAME STUCK IN A SINGLE GEAR AND WOULD NOT REV HIGHER THAN 2000 RPM AND WOULD NOT SHIFT GEARS. WOULD NOT ENGAGE FOR A FEW SECONDS, THEN WOULD LURCH FORWARD.

THE FOLLOWING HAS HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES ON MY 2016 MAZDA CX5 TOURING OVER THE COURSE OF ALMOST A YEAR. THE LAST INCIDENT OCCURRED ON OR ABOUT SEPTEMBER 23, 2016. 1) WHILE IN REVERSE, MOVING TO DRIVE, THERE IS A LAG BEFORE THE TRANSMISSION ENGAGES AND THEN LURCHES FORWARD. 2) FROM A STOP, THERE IS A LAG BEFORE THE TRANSMISSION ENGAGES, THE ENGINE REVS VERY LOUDLY AND THEN LURCHES FORWARD. 3) AT ANOTHER TIME, THE ENGINE REVS LOUDLY AND VERY HIGH WITH NO NOTICEABLE INCREASE IN SPEED AND THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN, IT SEEMS THAT THE TRANSMISSION ENGAGES. VERY DANGEROUS.

PUT CAR INTO REVERSE AND ALL WAS FINE. WHEN I TRIED TO PUT IT INTO DRIVE IT WOULDN'T ENGAGE IN DRIVE. AFTER A WHILE IT ENGAGED WITH A HARD CLUNK. WHEN I DROVE IT AND WOULD TRY TO ACCELERATE IT WAS THE SAME THING. AS IF THE CAR WAS NOT SHIFTING. THIS HAPPENED ON BOTH NEIGHBORHOOD STREETS AND ON THE HIGHWAY.

PURCHASED A BRAND NEW CX-5 GRAND TOURING ON FEB 14, 2016. AFTER ONLY 1,300 MILES AND ABOUT 3 WEEKS, MY BRAND NEW VEHICLE DECIDED TO NEARLY COME TO A COMPLETE STOP ON ITS OWN AFTER MAKING A RIGHT TURN. IT WAS AS IF I HAD SHIFTED THE CAR INTO PARK WHILE DRIVING. ABRUPT STOP. HEARD A COUPLE BEEPS, SAW A WARNING LIGHT COME ON. DRIVER BEHIND ME NEARLY REAR ENDED ME. PULLED OVER, TURNED ON FLASHERS, GOT MY WHITS ABOUT ME. BEEPING GONE. NO WARNING LIGHTS ON. LOOK AROUND, FOOT OFF BREAK, MERGE BACK ONTO ROAD. CALL THEIR SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND MAKE AN APPOINTMENT FOR NEXT DAY. DROP OFF CAR, TELL THEM WHAT HAPPENED, ASK FOR LOANER WHILE THEY ARE LOOKING AT IT. NOPE, NO LOANERS BUT CAN ARRANGE RENTAL FOR $35/DAY. TELL ME THEY CAN DEFINITELY FIND OUT WHAT HAPPENED BECAUSE IF WARNING LIGHT CAME ON IT WILL STORE THE EVENT IN THE ONBOARD COMPUTER. BORROW WIFE'S CAR CAUSE NOT WILLING TO PAY FOR RENTAL. SPEAK WITH THEM NEAR END IF DAY. WE COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG. NO STORED EVENT IN ONBOARD COMPUTER. TELL ME IF YOU CANT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM FOR US NOTHING WE CAN DO. OH WELL. TAKE CAR HOME. DRIVES FINE FOR 2 MORE WEEKS. ITS NOW MARCH 18, CAR OWNED ABOUT 6-WEEKS, WITH APPROX 1,600 MILES. DAMNED IF IT DOESN'T DO EXACT SAME THING AGAIN 3:30PM ON FRIDAY. AMAZED DRIVER BEHIND ME DOESN'T REAR END ME. THIS TIME NO BEEPS OR WARNING LIGHT. MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE

WHILE DRIVING THE WOULD NOT SHIFT. ENGINE LIGHT, TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT AND FLAT TIRE LIGHT ALL CAME ON AND THE CAR WOULD NOT GO OVER 10. TRIED TO SHIFT MANUALLY AND NOTHING. GOT OVER AND STOPPED, RESTARTED CAR AND ONLY ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON TRIED TO MOVE AND IT DID FOR A VERY SHORT DISTANCE AND AL THE LIGHT AND NOT SHIFTING AGAIN. STOPPED AND RE-STARTED AGAIN AND I COULD SHIFT MANUALLY. I LET THE CAR SIT FOR TWO HOURS AND THE AUTO TRANSMISSION DID WORK BUT DIDN'T RESPOND WELL. AFTER ABOUT AN HOUR DRIVE IT LOSS POWER AND WOULDN'T SHIFT AGAIN. I BELIEVE THE TRANSMISSION ISN'T BEING ALLOWED TO SHIFT DUE TO A VALVE ISSUE. CURRENTLY WAITING FOR MAZDA TO MAKE A DECISION DEALER RE-SET COMPUTER AND ALL LIGHT ARE OFF, BUT CAR STILL DOESN'T RESPOND WELL WHEN DRIVING SO IT IS STILL AT DEALER SHIP AND THE CAR ISN'T A YEAR OLD WITH ONLY 18500 MILES.

I PURCHASED MY CAR ON SEPT 10, 2015. I CURRENTLY HAVE 6,300 MILES ON MY VEHICLE. WHEN AT A STOP LIGHT AND I STEP ON THE GAS TO GO, THE CAR DOES NOT MOVE AND JUST REVS VERY LOUDLY. AFTER A FEW SECONDS, THE CAR ACCELERATES AND THE CAR JERKS PRETTY VIOLENTLY (TO THE POINT WHERE MY HEAD HITS THE BACK OF THE HEAD REST). THIS WAS VERY CONSISTENT ON MY WAY HOME FROM WORK. WHEN I WAS DRIVING UP AN INCLINE, THE CAR'S TIMING SEEMED TO BE OFF AS IT NEEDED TO DOWNSHIFT BUT COULDN'T WHEN IT SHOULD HAVE. I MADE IT HOME AND HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN NASHUA, NH. PER THE DEALERSHIP ON 2/22, THE CAR NEEDS A BRAND NEW TRANSMISSION.

VEHICLE WOULD NOT ENGAGE IN DRIVE WHEN SHIFTED INTO DRIVE. THERE WAS A 3-5 SECOND DELAY AND THE ENGINE WOULD REV, BUT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE. WHEN THE VEHICLE DID ENGAGE IN DRIVE IT WOULD PULL FORWARD HARD AND CLUNK INTO GEAR.